Tasting notes by Serge Valentin: 91 points

Colour: gold.

Nose: starts with subtle whiffs of upholstery, furniture polish, old cigars, cedar wood, and the usual suspects, figs and dates. Then we'd rather find praline, pistashio marzipan, and lovely earthy tones, touches of humus, little mushrooms. With water: opens up like bindweed in the morning and becomes wonderfully honeyed. Some poached pear topped with acacia honey and perhaps a small glass of Sauternes. A little menthol as well, camphor, subtle ointments.

Mouth (neat): this is a softer one after the 1975, but it’s also very citrusy and tropical. Amazing notes of blood oranges, pink grapefruits, and small guavas. Guavas can be restless and mischievous fruits. Goes on with lemon and orange honeys, and a drop of chartreuse plus a little mint liqueur, possibly from the wood. Impeccable. With water: we’re going towards teas, green pu-ehr, green earl grey, bergamots, with a touch of cinnamon and a hint of nutmeg from the cask. Mind you, forty-three years old.

Finish: long, with some mead and a little ginger. Caramelised oranges and peppermint in the aftertaste. This oldie still roars and shows no signs that it has tired of aging for more than four decades.