This vibrant Speysider has spent the last two years of its life in a sweet ex- Pedro Ximénez butt, giving a spicy nose full of sticky gingerbread, clove rock and liquorice. A little water coaxes out some juicy pear notes and a touch of underripe mango. The palate is a touch drying at full strength, offering ginger, pepper and sweet plum wine. A little time and dilution show a more complex dram, with layers of fruit, spice and a touch of oak. This is a vigorous whisky perfect for enjoying after dinner alongside dessert